Esslust – Essfrust : über das Unbehagen der Moderne an der Industrialisierung von Speis’ und Trank

In den westlichen Industrieländern gibt es Essen im Überfluss. Der Kampf um das tägliche Brot ist längst passé. Dennoch ist Essen nach wie vor in allerMunde und ein wichtiges Thema. Es hat sich zu einem andauernden postmodernen Hintergrundrauschen in der Gesellschaft entwickelt, das es soziologisch zu untersuchen gilt.

The industrialization and socialization of food and drink have altered the relationship between the individual and society and between nature and culture. This change came about in the 1970s in the form of a happy marriage between business and culinary culture. However, the alliance has come undone recently: the strict demands of economics have eroded the normative rules of culinary culture, which originated and developed around issues of taste, quality and community. Instead, they call for an insatiable consumer who is being denigrated at the same time as an uncontrollable glutton. The latter follows logically since the strategy of inducing guilt by finger pointing at the greedy consumer is itself a product of an ever-expanding world of goods and services. It comes as no surprise that both health food products and confectionary alike are often offered to the consumer by the same companies.

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